I travel for travels sake 
                                       - Robert Louis Stevenson

Moscow

On the plane to Moscow in August of 2005 I thought of all the things I associated with the place. There was the James Bond flick From Russia With Love, the Romanovs, Dostyovesky, Josif Stalin and Communism, Yeltsins large red face that had adorned most of the papers in the early 90s, Putin, and the tragedy of the submarine Kursk.  The sigh I had reserved and practiced to a t (completely theatrical), for the moment I would behold this bleak country, still reeling in the aftermath of Communism, trying to assert its global consequence in the wake of a new found democracy, was testimony enough to my naivety. How wrong I was in assuming that this great capital city of a country that has been one of the most influential in the better part of world history, would not offer more than the clichés we are fed in cinema and fiction.
The airport carried with it an air of despondency and lethargy. I learnt an immediate lesson on the regimentation of work hours. Ten am meant ten am, not a minute before. The currency exchange opened at 10 and I dared to ask for assistance at 9:55. The reply was a simple, crossing of the arms by the lady behind the counter. I departed sans roubles yet oh so smug about the similarities in Indian administration and Russian.
The smugness was short lived and soon replaced by (I cant deny it) awe, wonder and envy. I have to admit, experiencing chaotic traffic, dodging animals on the road and veering to avoid collisions with jay walkers back home in Delhi, did colour my perception of the urban scene of Moscow. For the average white tourist the streets, highways and buildings may not have been spectacles of wonder, but for the true blue Delhiite, the city damned every vision of Russia that had been cemented in Indian thought.
The skyscrapers, the cars, the boutique windows exhibiting high fashion all spelt modernity, yet around every corner and interspersed with the glass and steel structures were old buildings, monuments and roads dating back to the times of the Romanovs and Communism. For me, in its unique blend of antiquity and contemporary, Moskba had arrived.

For those of us who wish to experience the splendour of the Czars, the relics of Stalins Communist regime and the regalia of Tchaikovsky ballets, Moscow has all to offer. In terms of covered area Russia is the largest country in the world, spanning 13 time zones, spread over a total area of 17 million square kilometers and has more than 5 different ethnic communities practicing diverse religions. But for travelers like me who enjoy a mix of the past and present, and want a taste of antiquity coupled with modern comforts, Moscow is the city to explore. Of course Russia, a country with diverse landscapes, offers a smorgasbord of adventure to the more seasoned traveler who might wish to embark on a more wholesome experience.
I on the other hand was smitten by Moscow. I forgot about the rest of Russia. The Trans Siberian Railway, Vladivostok and Siberia became perfunctory after a day in Moscow.

Commuting:

The Metro: A city of (I bet) a few million people and home to one of the oldest metros in the world, Moscow holds diverse attractions. A ride on the anything but sterile and extremely well connected metro is a must. Although I must admit a certain sinking and claustrophobic feeling I encountered as I went down an escalator nearly 1 km long, it is still the most convenient and economical way to traverse the city and get a closer view of the average Moscovite. Grab a copy of the Metro map and use it well. 

Buses: With regular routes, and being systematic and convenient for short distances, the buses are thankfully devoid of all the elements we associate with DTC buses. Except maybe lecherous men and strange odors; these could be either, strangely alluring or alarmingly repulsive depending on the subject they emanate from!

Ferry: The Moscow River weaves an intricate, circuitous route within the city and is the perfect roundabout way to tour the capital on a warm afternoon. One can view the city at leisure and is ideal in case theres time to kill and no immediacy in reaching the destination.

Taxis, Rentals etc: I lacked the finances and the family to be driven around in perfect bourgeois fashion, I found comfort in mass movement (puns intended).

Feet: One of the most distinct features of Moscow is its old, cobbled streets. The city is well planned and is divided into neat blocks, so short distances are best covered on foot. Good walking shoes are a must, unless you wish to try a in Rome do as the Romans do, and attempt walking in painfully high heels like almost every young Russian woman seems to be. Warning: been there, done that resulted in extreme pain in posterior, swollen ankles and wholly bruised ego. Friendly advice: Dont try it.

Must Sees (for the History buffs):

Moscow Kremlin and the Red Square: All forts in the Russian language are called Kremlin. The famous one in Moscow is called, but of course, Moscow Kremlin. It houses the Presidents Office, National Archives, Museums and Russian Orthodox Cathedrals of Dormition, Annunciation and the Archangel Michael, among others.
The tomb of the Unknown Soldier, near the Ancient Wall and the Alexander gardens is apt homage to Russias martyrs.
Lenins Tomb in the Red Square invites long queues and requires oodles of patience. Although I missed out on it, it must be truly rewarding to see the embalmed body of this historic figure.

Suggestion: Take a guided tour in English. Can be slightly expensive but allows a thorough examining and close access to art, artifacts and other historic memorabilia.

Victory Park and Memorial: Located on the posh Kutuzovsky Prospekt, the park and memorial are a must see. The landscaped hillocks, blooming flowers, cobbled streets and rows of fountains lead you up to the three sided obelisk structure erected to commemorate Russias martyrs. The Memorial Complex and Park also house an Orthodox Church, Mosque, Catholic Chapel and Synagogue. The museum within the complex is replete with artifacts such as paintings, arms, coins and a complete military display.
Tip: The admission tickets to the museum are slightly steep for the average pocket. A walk in the Park at your own pace is completely rewarding in itself. Make sure you carry your camera and extra batteries for this picturesque venue.

Also must check out:
St. Basils Cathedral, which is one of the most beautiful places of worship I have ever laid eyes on.
Ballets; after all Russian ballets are world famous and there are performances taking place all the year round at the Balshoi Theatre. Of course tickets cost something less than a small island. On a more serious note, although slightly steep, you get your moneys worth. I was enthralled by the performance of Tchaikovskys Swan Lake; wish I could say the same about my yawning neighbour.
The Russian Circus has regular performances in the city. Though the acrobatics and trapeze shows are brilliant, the comedy and chimp cameos are more or less slapstick.
There are many other museums and monuments scattered all over the city. Borodino has a beautiful dome shaped display depicting a vantage view of the Russian Militia routing Napoleons French Army.
Inexpensive tourist guidebooks give you a host of museums and monuments to explore as well as information on ballets, opera and the circus.

Shopping, Partying and Eating:
(In order of preference)
Moscow is one of the most expensive cities in the world, so shopping for brands (they have em all Gucci, Prada, Fendi) will have its effects on your budget. Still, malls like Ghum are sumptuous in their layout, and are teeming with activity.
Ismailosky Park is like the local Dilli haat. Perfect place for souvenior shopping and striking desi bargains. You can get the grouchy boss a nifty little gift and thrifty trinkets for those acquaintances were forced to call friends. There are tons of cheap DVDs to be bought on Sundays, so plan your trip accordingly.
For downright good shopping for clothes and shoes, its absolutely vital to visit Sportanova. Its a Mecca for great deals on all possible brands like Puma, Adidas, Nike and the lot. Of course theyre all fake, but then, so are the prices. Watch out for strange men hawking their wares by calling out Namaste and Jimmy. The Russians love Raj Kapoor and his films in Russian locales. Brown skin equates Bollywood here.

I did not go solo on my trip but with the whole fam, so the chances for a night out at the local clubs was impossible. The sun doesnt set before 10 in Moscow, literally, (during summer that is) so parties start late and go on till the wee hours of morning. The clubs looked quite inviting and there are quite a few to choose from. Spoken language can be a challenge but then signals seem to work in clubs globally.
Remember to check up on the drinking age and other rules, in case you want to avoid a confrontation with Russian cops.

Eating might be a slight issue. But then the Americans havent spared Russia, so Moscow has its share of McDonalds outlets. Its an absolute must to walk down the New Arbat that has lots of eating options, from little bistros to cafes and pizza parlours. The street is vibrant and full of energy with people painting, performing and selling avant garde art. Its ideal for a cold beer and a relaxing stroll and some nice bargains on peculiar art.
 
Ive tried to cover my entire trip as concisely as possible and to give you the low down on this magnificent city. But then the experience is incomplete unless you decide to visit. I traveled Aeroflot and have to admit that they were downright scary flights complete with Russian pilots, Russian stewardesses and Russian plane. Dont bother asking for a blanket; theyre either not there at all or strictly for business-class/children/elderly/people with three eyesget my drift? Registration and confirmation of return tickets is essential within 2 days of arrival, otherwise the authorities assume your going to stay on and cancel your tickets (Im speaking with first hand experience). Dont forget to carry your passports at all times in public, the authorities can confuse you with the most wanted Chechen rebel and throw you into the slammer for a James Bond like experience.
The Russian script is Cryllic so absolutely impossible to read. Very few people speak English so try and pick up essential words like Spaseba (thank you) and uh yeah thats all I learnt. Sales are all in Roubles but there are currency exchange booths on almost every street that allow you to convert currency (read dollars and euros).
Have fun and keep your eyes pealed for the famous Russian mafia. You can catch them in black aviators, souped up black cars and speeding (illegally) down the emergency lanes with a line of cops, their sirens screeching, in tow.